The Tar Heel State

We left Charleston and traveled on the Waccamaw River, a beautiful river with lots of picturesque anchorages. We chose Thoroughfare Creek, motoring up until we found the sandy beach that lines Sandy Island.  Three other boats were already there so we found our spot, anchored and then took Buddy ashore.  We found lots of sand (hence Sandy Island) and different types of animal tracks.  The waterway guide said there are wild hogs and wild dogs but we saw none of them-we did hear some strange howling that night but it could have been the strange boat near us!

Thoroughfare Creek, SC

As we were closing in on SC, we called George and Gwen Jerome, friends who have relocated to NC, and set up a meeting with them.  As it turned out, Mimi and Jerry Zwick, also from the Naugatuck teaching days, were arriving the same day.  We were picked up at the marina, wined and dined and then returned with great memories revisited.  The visit made us a little homesick for friends and family...so nice to spend time with folks you have a history with.  Thanks George and Gwen!

Jerry,  Mimi, Gwen, George

Our next stop was Southport, NC, a town that has a lot of charm.  While it still had its charm, we noticed an increase in For Sale signs on homes and more empty store fronts.  It seems the poor economy has finally hit here too.  We did get a chance to connect with Lee and Pat Glover who have relocated here.  Again so nice to talk with Newtown folks!

Our two legged friend Buddy from NC (lived in Newtown for a while) met us in Southport and took us out for a delicious dinner and then took us shopping for some needed provisions.  He spent the night with us and then the next day his Significant Other Caroline joined us for a ride up the Cape Fear River and then on to Bald Head Island.
BHI does not allow vehicles, only golf carts.  Consequently, it's the quietest place you can imagine.  We took our bikes for a ride to the few stores on the island and had a nice walk with Buddy (the dog) on the beach and through the area near the marina.  What a peaceful place this is!  We recommend this to everyone!

Buddy and Caroline

Bald Head Island Harbor

Old Baldy Lighthouse

Getting to a wedding-car seat and all!

At Mile Marker 270 we were intercepted by Greg from Lady in Red, a cruising friend whom we traveled with from Chicago to Kentucky).  He escorted us through some skinny water to his beautiful home where his wife Donna was waiting for us.  There we tied up to their private dock  for two nights while they wined and dined us and gave us a tour of Wilmington and Hampsted.  They are examples of the great people you hear about that do America's Great Loop!  Thanks Greg and Donna for a fabulous time!

Greg and Donna

Ann, Greg, Pete, Dan, Donna-Ann and Dan are neighbors and Loopers too (Borrowed Horse)

Swansboro,NC

  The winds increased after we left Greg and Donna so we stayed in Casper's Marina in Swansboro, NC, a cute little town looking to increase their tourism industry by wooing tourists with their specialty shops.  On the way to Swansboro we traveled through Camp LeJeune, crossing over their firing range which can be closed for up to three hours when it's in use. Thankfully, no practice was going when we went through although we did see some leftovers of other days.

Our tax dollars at work

On to Beaufort (pronounced Bowfort) where we anchored in the crowded anchorage in Taylor Creek just outside of the harbor.  There are many liveaboards there who have mooring balls and anchors who guided us to a better place to drop the hook right in front of  Green Marker 9. Beaufort is on one side of the creek and an island with wild horses on the other side.  We hiked a bit there and found one horse grazing who was very unimpressed with us.  We were impressed with him!

Sunset in Taylor Creek, Beaufort, NC

From there we traveled to Oriental, NC where we stayed on their town dock.  This is the sailing capital of NC, nothing like Newport but they do have a fair amount of sailboats.  The town is very  quiet with most of the activity happening at the waterfront.  We thought it was cool that you could go online (www.towndock.net/HarborCam)to check out the availability of space on their town dock before you got there.  By the time we arrived, there was just enough space for us  to squeeze behind a 20' boat...the captain is a magician.

Pongo River

 When we anchor we always need to make sure there is a shore we can land Buddy.  We read that the Pungo River had a sandy beach so that was our destination.  When we got there we couldn't find the sandy beach but our captain with his keen instincts and GPS kept going up the river until we came to an inlet that had a dock we could tie up to and a little park for Buddy to romp.  We spent a peaceful night anchored in our own little piece of the world.

We were advised to stay at Alligator River Marina AKA Wicked Wanda's as she has advice about crossing the Albermerle Sound, a shallow body of water that can be very treacherous with the right winds. She told us to follow the markers on the green side and not to use the magenta line-dah, we knew that!  We left early the next morning before the winds could kick up and with a following sea made it across with minimum discomfort.  Elizabeth City was our destination.  It has an amazing reputation for welcoming cruisers.  First of all, they offer a free dock - no power or electric but a safe place to tie up.  When we arrived, there were more than 14 boats there already, so we found some space further down their wall (three other boats soon joined us).  Then they  have a wine and cheese gathering where they also give each boat a rose. The tradition was started by two residents about 30 years ago and they continue it today with the roses coming from the transplanted rose bushes of one of the founding tradition-resident.  How nice is that!!  While in Elizabeth City we were met by Newtown friends Lonny and Erika who have moved to Edenton.  They brought us shopping to reprovision and restock our oil supply.Then off to a great dinner in Elizabeth City downtown.  Thanks Lonny and Erika- your company was very much enjoyed!

Elizabeth City, NC

wine and cheese gathering

The Dismal Swamp

The Dismal Swamp is a man-made waterway dug out over 200 years ago to connect Elizabeth City to the Albemarle Sound.  It was used to transport goods but today only pleasure boaters use it so it's very calm and quiet.  But it is Dismal - very primitive and remote.  It's a straight ditch with two locks- yes, two more locks!  There is a Visitor's Center in the middle of it so we overnighted at the dock they provide.  There's a great museum there too.  Anyway, we took this route to leave North Carolina and we were greeted by this sign-Hey, we're making progress home!