Tony M Trawler: Chicago and the Illinois River Waterway

September 1, 2010 - September 11, 2010

We left New Buffalo expecting a bumpy ride across Lake Michigan but were pleasantly surprised at the relatively quiet, boring ride to Chicago-we like boring on Lake Michigan! The clouds didn't help us capture the skyline like we saw it but it was spectacular nonetheless. We found the entrance to Burnham Harbor where we were going to stay for two nights and were entertained by fireboats doing routine drills.


Our welcoming committee

Burnhan Park is close to the Museum Campus, making it very convenient to visit them. We decided on the Field Museum, the museum of Natural History. We spent the afternoon there until it closed and then had dto go back to the boat to feed Buddy and give him some exercise. We took our bikes and rode on beautiful bike paths along Lake Shore Drive. These paths are dedicated to walkers and bikers and are very well used by Chicagoans and tourists alike. We arrived at Navy Pier, walking along this historic waterfront. We grabbed cheezborgers at the famous Billy Goat Tavern (made famous by the Saturday Night Live crew) and tried to get into "Taste Of Chicago" venue but were politely asked to leave.

Soldier Field

Field Museum of Natural History

With so many attractions to see in Chicago, we finally decided to visit the Museum of Science and Industry. What a great museum with many interactive displays. We stayed until it closed, grabbed a bus and went back to the boat to rescue Buddy from loneliness and the firetruck sirens. We were contemplating staying in Chicago longer but realized we needed to get on down the Illinois River soon-we could always take a car or plane to Chicago but this would probably be our only boat opportunity.

Newton's Cradle

So off we went to continue the Loop.

After going under approximately 80 bridges through Chicago on the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal we met up with our first real barges and tows. They are huge and can combine many barges to become even bigger-very intimidating!


Lake Shore Drive Bridge-our first bridge

Barges

As we approached the infamous electric fish barrier (designed to prevent the spread of Asian Carp through the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal into Lake Michigan), we were greeted by a digital sign instructing us to call the Coast Guard for instructions. We had heard horror stories of previous years looper boats that had to disconnect their batteries and were then towed through by the Coast Guard so we were prepared for the worst. When we tried to hail the CG, they did not respond so we went through without a spark! This area is supposed to close down 9/7-9/11 for refurbishing so we were very happy to get through before all that happened.

Our next obstacle was the second lock on the Illinois Waterway, the Lockport Lock. It was here we met up with Art and Sandra (Magoo) and Greg and Donna (Lady in Red). The wind was blowing at about 20-25 mph, making holding onto lines difficult. Boats holding just lines were pushed into the middle of the lock-not where you want to be. Luckily, we had a bollard to tie onto that lowers as the water in the lock lowers. Hairy locking experience but we all escaped without leaving any fiberglass behind!

We were glad to be settled in for the night in Joliet, IL at a town sponsored free dock with power. Starting out in Chicago and ending up in Joliet made for a very long 42 mile day!

Joliet

Traveling with three other boats (we picked up Breaking Away) seemed to help us get through the next three locks with ease-no waiting. We had heard horror stories about other Looper boats waiting two-four hours for the preferential barges to lock through but we didn't experience any of that. After the forty-two miles and three locks, we truly appreciated the Ottawa free dock. We reprovisioned at the local IGA that gave us a ride back to the dock-a pleasure not to schlep groceries-how I miss our car!

Traveling down the Illinois River has been rather boring, miles and miles of not very attractive uninhabited waterfront. We've seen about five residents and lots of trees with bare exposed roots, jumping Asian carp, a few campers, some industry, smelly water and lots of tugs and barges.

300 miles of this scenery-yikes

Tied to first lock on Illinois River at Henry Harbor Marina

Marinas are few and very far between so you have to take what's there-no choices. We pulled into Henry Harbor Marina and tied up to a deteriorating wall with hooks. Because of the silting from the floods, we couldn't go into the main part of the marina because the water was only 2-3 feet deep and we all need 4 feet. The wall was a remnant of the first lock on the Illinois River and until the flood two years ago(17 feet of water over the banks!) the area was landscaped and beautiful. Now the remains looked like a bomb had exploded. The owner was very accommodating and was trying to build up hs business in a difficult environment.

Remains of a once nice marina

The Peoria Lock is being refurbished and the only time we can get through is on Sunday and before 7AM and after 5 PM the rest of the week. We left Henry Harbor Marina figuring we'd stay at the docks in Peoria so we could get to the Lock by 6:30 AM on Tuesday but when we called, the lockmaster told us to come NOW or we'd have to wait a week until next Sunday because no more pleasure boats would be locked through this week. There was a no brainer unanimous decision to go straight to the lock where the 6' drop with little wind was anticlimactic after what almost happened.

Peoria

Our luck was still with us. Sixty miles later we pulled into Tall Timbers Marina-a gift from heaven. It is tucked in a little embayment off the river. Bob the owner told us he had just reopened the day before (dredging his channel) and would close this weekend for the season. I don't know what the other loopers will do since there are no other marinas in the area. We celebrated Pete's birthday at a Mexican restaurant in Havana, Illinois-delicious food. Happy Birthday, Pete!

Our next night's stop was in Beardstown at Logarton Tug Service work barge-what a hoot! Remember our photo in the Georgian Bay of our picturesque backyard? This backyard is on the totally opposite end of the spectrum. Beggars can't be choosers so we tied to it for the night. Getting Buddy onto the greasy barge and up the steep metal stairs was a feat in itself! The pictures should speak for themselves.

Tony M tied toward end of barge

Our view from the side of the boat

Beardstown, a dying Illinois farm town

Our last stop on the Illinois River before we enter the Mississippi was Grafton. The real marina was a welcomed site as it had a pool, hot tub and sparkling showers. The courtesy car enabled us to go 15 miles to WalMart where we could reprovision for the next week. The variety of food to buy was overwhelming so of course, we bought too much. Realizing this, I made a pot of spaghetti sauce with meatballs and sausage and then realized there was no room in the refrigerator for it. We invited some fellow loopers over to help us eat up our surplus-good conversation and company! The next 221 mile section of the Mississippi should be challenging. There is only one marina on this section of the Mississippi we will be traveling on so the other nights we will have to anchor behind wingdams.(stonewalls of various lengths along both banks that deflects the river current toward the center of the river). We'll be traveling with Lady in Red and Magoo-safety in numbers!

Grafton Marina


One of the few IL River homes-no family room basements here!

Before we went to Grafton Marina, we traveled up the Mississippi River to Port Charles to buy fuel as it was $.47 a gallon cheaper. Getting there was a thrill-we had to cut thru two islands that according to our charts had dams across it. There are dams but they're covered with water-our forward-looking sonar made it look even more intimidating. A thrill a minute!