Tony M

Tony M

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Land Between the Lakes

September20, 2010-September 22, 2010


The hot weather is killing us.  There's no breeze and it's 95 degrees every day.  We had such beautiful weather in Canada this summer that this heat is hard for us to take!

When you leave Green Turtle Bay, you have a choice of continuing down the Cumberland River toward Nashville which become Lake Barkley or use the Barkley Canal to Kentucky Lake.  We chose to explore Barkley Lake for a day before beginning our journey down the Tennessee River on the Kentucky Lake.  With no residents to gawk at, and only sandy shores with some limestone outcroppings, it was a ho hum ride.  We did see a building looming ahead of us that looked castle-like.  When we got closer, we discovered it was Kentucky State Penitentiary known as "The Castle on the Cumberland", Kentucky's only maximum security prison, built with stone from local quarries.
Castle on the Cumberland


Barkley Lake shoreline


We anchored near shore for a swim to try to cool off-it was a little nerve wracking to leave the channel since there are no soundings markings on either the paper or electronic charts so you are not sure how much water is under the boat until you get there and then it could be too late!  Pete sniffed his nautical nose and we were fine for a few hours.  We stayed at Barkley Lake State Park Marina for the night, a KY state facility that was attached to  a resort with an 18 hole golf course  We took a morning walk up to the resort complex and were impressed with the conference center and indoor pool complex-not bad for a state park!
Sunset at Barkley Lake Marina


The next day we backtracked up Barkley Lake back to the Barkley Canal.  The canal marks the northern end of the Land Between the Lakes (LBL) National Recreation Area.  It borders both the Tennessee River and the Cumberland River for about 40 miles.  This spine of land separating the two rivers is up to eight miles wide and is one of the Nation's largest inland peninsulas.  President Kennedy created LBL in 1963 as a recreational and environmental education area.

Barkley Canal

From the Barkley Canal we entered Kentucky Lake, part of the Tennessee River on which we will travel about 440 mile to Chattanooga, TN.  Because of the heat, we decided not to anchor out but to find a marina with electricity for the AC.  We stayed at Kenlake State Resort Park, another nice marina (except there are no shower facilities-what do you want for $22.50!)  As it's even too hot to cook and heat up or little galley and living quarters, we decided to catch a ride up to the resort restaurant and ate a yummy meal.  Our ride back was with the cutey Park Ranger.  When the waitress told us we'd ride back with the ranger, I thought she meant a Ford Ranger truck-not a real live ranger!
Our ride from the restaurant

Mt Dew everywhere-even outside Kenlake Marina bathrooms

Sunrise at Kenlake Marina in KY
Tonight we're at Paris Landing State Park Marina (with showers-yeah) in Tennessee, parked next to the Coast Guard facility.  We'll be going to dinner here too-can't wait to meet this ranger!

Enjoy your coolness!

Sunday, September 19, 2010

She Just Keeps Rolling Along...


September 19, 2010

We left Kaskaskia Lock at 8 AM with a goal of Little Diversion River Channel in mind as our next night's safe haven on the Mississippi River.  After six and a half hours of motoring we found the little channel tucked into a small opening, cluttered with lots of flotsam and a fisherman's floating catfish lines We carefully picked our way through it, lowered the anchor and we five boats settled in for the night.It was hot and buggy but we still managed to sleep well.   Buddy enjoyed his dinghy ride to the only place right by the railroad bridge that wasn't muddy along the banks of this channel.
Little River Diversion Channel
We were surprised at the large amount of commercial traffic with no recreation boating to be had.  Consequently, that's why there are no marinas. 
The only recreational boat we saw!
Four by Five barges with tow

 We left Little Diversion River Channel and pushed eighty miles, leaving the Mississippi River and making a left turn onto the Ohio River. As soon as we entered the Ohio, we noticed how much clearer the water became-not that anyone wanted to dive in and go for a swim but the muddiness lessened considerably and the shore changed from mud to sandy beaches.  Industry was still heavy and tows and barges were our river companions. We spent the night anchored in front of Lock 52 on the Ohio where Buddy thoroughly enjoyed the sandy beach and the swim he could finally take.  We were lucky to get locked through at 8 AM as there was an eleven hour wait (12 tows and barges lined up the Ohio and Cumberland River) for the southbound barges and I'm sure they wouldn't have let five pleasure boats sneak through.
cells for barges to tie up to

shore with sand-not mud

We entered the Cumberland River which is narrow -about 120 yards wide- with cleaner water, more sandy shores and even a few houses. This was the river that flooded last Spring and caused much destruction in Nashville and vicinity.   We joyfully arrived at Green Turtle Bay (yes, the bay here is loaded with turtles), ending our 600 + miles journey from Chicago to here.  A sense of accomplishment and relief was felt by all as we relaxed and enjoyed each others company.

This marina has courtesy vehicles so two other women  and I had a field trip to Paducah, famous for the National Quilt Museum and Hancock of Paducah Fabric Store.  The museum was excellent and contributions were made to the fabric store-just so they wouldn't go out of business.  Paducah is another town trying to restore their waterfront with interesting shops and restaurants, making it a worthwhile tourist stop.
National Quilt Museum
One of many

Paducah
Eat your hearts out Marian & Linda!
Stilts for restaurant to deal with floods

After staying in Green Turtle Bay for five days, we have caught our breath and are ready to continue on the Tennessee River tomorrow. The area around the Tennessee River having some beautiful cruising grounds-we're ready for that!

Enjoy your fall weather -we have experienced five 93 degree days with the same for the rest of the week-what's today's date?

By the way, Happy Birthday, John!

Monday, September 13, 2010

Ole Man River

September 13, 2010

Our Lady of the Rivers Shrine built after 1950 disastrous flood as gratitude for not flooding Portage des Sioux


After three restful nights at Grafton Marina, we left Sunday bright and early at 7 AM with Lady in Red, Magoo, Mas Buenos and Merried with Her to conquer the Mississippi.  We knew we had to travel about 55 miles which shouldn't be a problem but we also had two locks to get through. So far our technique of calling the lockmaster on the phone to find out the lock's status had worked well and we had had no delays.  We were hoping for the same results again.  Mel Price Lock and Dam 26 was clear and we sailed through without a hitch.  Fifteen miles later we came to our last lock on the Mississippi, the Chain of Rocks Lock and Dam 27.  Just the name of it made be become wary and for good reason-it was being worked on so we had to float around outside the entrance for three hours before we were locked through with a commercial 8 barge and tow.  You have to look carefully at the picture to see the barge and tow on the right and us pleasure boats on the left.
Chain of Rocks Lock


They don't want anyone getting lost on the Chain Of Locks Canal!

The St. Louis' Gateway to the West was thrilling to see from the water.  St. Louis looked like an interesting city but there is absolutely no where to tie up to visit it.  The waterfront is all industrial with barges and tows and more barges and tows.
Gateway to the West
Riverboat casino outside St. Louis
We pulled into Hoppies Marina around 4:30. This rustic marina is the last marina for the next 228 mile.  The dockage is made from three barges tied with cables and we are learning to appreciate any place we can safely tie up for the night.  Fern Hopkins, the owner, sits all loopers down and describes the dangerous rapids and bends on the river and explains safe anchorages.  She is legend and her words are highly respected by all.  We all diligently marked up our charts and took special notes...we greatly respect her expertise and will follow her directions to the letter!
Fern Hopkins-River Expert!
Hoppies Marina
Marina Lounge Area

Magoo, Lady in Red, Mas Buenos, Merried with Her and Tony M enjoying scones, celebrating Art and Sandra's 41st anniversary at Hoppies


Fern's first suggested night's stop is at Kaskasdkia Lock, off the Mississippi  so that's where we are for tonight. The lockmaster is allowing us to tie up to the wall as long as we don't climb the ladder to get out or tie onto the handrails.  Again it's rustic with no water or power but it's  quiet and we're safe.  There is some dredging going on in our backyard but it's interesting to watch.  Buddy goes for dinghy rides to shore for exercise and bathroom breaks!

KasKaskia Lock wall for the night
Think of us tonight!

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Chicago and the Illinois River Waterway

September 1, 2010 - September 11, 2010

We left New Buffalo expecting a bumpy ride across Lake Michigan but were pleasantly surprised at the relatively quiet, boring ride to Chicago-we like boring on Lake Michigan! The clouds didn't help us capture the skyline like we saw it but it was spectacular nonetheless.  We found the entrance to Burnham Harbor where we were going to stay for two nights and were entertained by fireboats doing routine drills.

Our welcoming committee

Burnhan Park is close to the Museum Campus, making it very convenient to visit them.  We decided on the Field Museum, the museum of Natural History.  We spent the afternoon there until it closed and then had dto go back to the boat to feed Buddy and give him some exercise.  We took our bikes and rode on beautiful bike paths along Lake Shore Drive.  These paths are dedicated to walkers and bikers and are very well used by Chicagoans and tourists alike.  We arrived at Navy Pier, walking along this historic waterfront.  We grabbed cheezborgers at the famous Billy Goat Tavern (made famous by the Saturday Night Live crew) and tried to get into "Taste Of Chicago" venue but were politely asked to leave.

Soldier Field
Field Museum of Natural History


With so many attractions to see in Chicago, we finally decided  to visit the Museum of Science and Industry.  What a great museum with many interactive displays.  We stayed until it closed, grabbed a bus and went  back to the boat to rescue Buddy from loneliness and the firetruck sirens.  We were contemplating staying in Chicago longer but realized we needed to get on down the Illinois River soon-we could always take a car or plane to Chicago but this would probably be our only boat opportunity.
Newton's Cradle



So off we went to continue the Loop.

After going under approximately 80 bridges through Chicago on the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal we met up with our first real barges and tows.  They are huge and can combine many barges to become even bigger-very intimidating!
Lake Shore Drive Bridge-our first bridge

Barges

As we approached the infamous electric fish barrier (designed to prevent the spread of Asian Carp through the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal into Lake Michigan), we were greeted by a digital sign instructing us to call the Coast Guard for instructions.  We had heard horror stories of previous years looper boats that had to disconnect their batteries and were then towed through by the Coast Guard so we were prepared for the worst. When we tried to hail the CG, they did not respond so we went through without a spark!  This area is supposed to close down 9/7-9/11 for refurbishing so we were very happy to get through before all that happened.

Our next obstacle was the  second lock  on the Illinois Waterway, the Lockport Lock.  It was here we met up with Art and Sandra (Magoo) and Greg and Donna (Lady in Red). The wind was blowing at about 20-25 mph, making holding onto lines difficult. Boats holding just lines were pushed into the middle of the lock-not where you want to be. Luckily, we had a bollard to tie onto that lowers as the water in the lock lowers.  Hairy locking experience but we all escaped without leaving any fiberglass behind!

We were glad to be settled in for the night in Joliet, IL at a town sponsored free dock with power.  Starting out in Chicago and ending up in Joliet made for a very long 42 mile day!
Joliet


Traveling with three other  boats (we picked up Breaking Away) seemed to help us get through the next three locks with ease-no waiting.  We had heard horror stories about other Looper boats waiting two-four hours for the preferential barges to lock through but we didn't experience any of that. After the forty-two miles and three locks, we truly appreciated the Ottawa free dock.  We reprovisioned at the local IGA that gave us a ride back to the dock-a pleasure not to schlep groceries-how I miss our car! 

Traveling down the Illinois River has been rather boring, miles and miles of not very attractive uninhabited waterfront. We've seen about five residents and lots of trees with bare exposed roots, jumping Asian carp, a few campers, some industry, smelly water and lots of tugs and barges.


300 miles of this scenery-yikes




Tied to first lock on Illinois River at Henry Harbor Marina
Marinas are few and very far between so you have to take what's there-no choices.  We pulled into Henry Harbor Marina and tied up to a deteriorating wall with hooks.  Because of the silting from the floods, we couldn't go into the main part of the marina because the water was only 2-3 feet deep and we all need 4 feet. The wall was a remnant of the first lock on the Illinois River and until the flood two years ago(17 feet of water over the banks!) the area was landscaped and beautiful.  Now the remains looked like a bomb had exploded.  The owner was very accommodating and was trying to build up hs business in a difficult environment.
Remains of a once nice marina

The Peoria Lock is being refurbished and the only time we can get through is on Sunday and before 7AM and after 5 PM the rest of the week.  We left Henry Harbor Marina figuring we'd stay at the docks in Peoria so we could get to the Lock by 6:30 AM on Tuesday but when we called, the lockmaster told us to come NOW or we'd have to wait a week until next Sunday because no more pleasure boats would be locked through this week. There was a no brainer unanimous decision to go straight to the lock where the 6' drop with little wind was anticlimactic after what almost happened.
Peoria


Our luck was still with us. Sixty miles later we pulled into Tall Timbers Marina-a gift from heaven.  It is tucked in a little embayment off the river.  Bob the owner told us he had just reopened the day before (dredging his channel) and would close this weekend for the season.  I don't know what the other loopers will do since there are no other marinas in the area.  We celebrated Pete's birthday at a Mexican restaurant in Havana, Illinois-delicious food.  Happy Birthday, Pete!


Our next night's stop was in Beardstown at Logarton Tug Service work barge-what a hoot!  Remember our photo in the Georgian Bay of our picturesque backyard?  This backyard is on the totally opposite end of the spectrum.  Beggars can't be choosers so we tied to it for the night. Getting Buddy onto the greasy barge and up the steep metal stairs was a feat in itself!  The pictures should speak for themselves.

Tony M tied toward end of barge
Our view from the side of the boat


Beardstown, a dying Illinois farm town

Our last stop on the Illinois River before we enter the Mississippi was Grafton.  The real marina was a welcomed site as it had a pool, hot tub and sparkling showers.  The courtesy car enabled us to go 15 miles to WalMart where we could reprovision for the next week.  The variety of food to buy was overwhelming so of course, we bought too much.  Realizing this, I made a pot of spaghetti sauce with meatballs and sausage and then realized there was no room in the refrigerator for it. We invited some fellow loopers over to help us eat up our surplus-good conversation and company! The next 221 mile section of the Mississippi should be challenging.  There is only one marina on this section of the Mississippi we will be traveling on so the other nights we will have to anchor behind wingdams.(stonewalls of various lengths along both banks that deflects the river current toward the center of the river).  We'll be traveling with Lady in Red and Magoo-safety in numbers!
Grafton Marina

One of the few IL River homes-no family room basements here!
Before we went to Grafton Marina, we traveled up the Mississippi River to Port Charles to buy fuel as it was $.47 a gallon cheaper.  Getting there was a thrill-we had to cut thru two islands that according to our charts had dams across it. There are dams but they're covered with water-our forward-looking sonar made it look even more intimidating.  A thrill a minute!
Cut thru on Mississippi
Yikes-a solid wall ahead!
Hope everyone is enjoying this glorious weather!